Four go to Fuerteventura (2026) – Day 4

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Day 4 – Thursday 12th March

You came back! Thanks! 😉. Welcome to Day 4 – a day of wonky weather forecasts, wishlists and worship; performances, processions and pizzas! 🙂😉

We’re here in Fuerteventura with great mates, Paul & Sue. Last time we were all together, was in Corralejo, back in January, 2024 and we had a great time. This year, we’ve timed the break to coincide with the annual Corralejo Carnival that runs from the 5th until the 15th March. For 2026, the headline celebrations include: the Grand Parade (Cabalgata) on Saturday, March 14th, with other major events including the Drag Queen Gala, Adult Queen Gala, and the Burial of the Sardine (yes, really!). 

Our home for this week is the Las Marismas Hotel in Corralejo, and we’ve bagged a one-bedroom apartment each with a bed (obviously!) & breakfast for the duration of our stay. We also hired a car at the airport to give us the flexibility to explore more of the area. It’s a tank-like Sssssshcoda Kodiaq 7 seater.

We’ve decided to make a day of it and head south to a village called Betancuria – population: 801! It was on this four’s wishlist, and Jo & Janet had also enjoyed their time here recently too! For historical context, it was originally the ancient capital of the whole of the Canaries, and everyone we know who’s been to this part of the world has recommended that we visit this gem. Word to the Wise: If you follow in our footsteps, note that although it takes less than an hour to get there by car, the last section is fairly twisty! Enjoy! 👍.

According ot the marketing blurb: “Betancuria is a historic, picturesque village in the mountainous interior of Fuerteventura, founded in 1404 by the French explorer, Jean de Béthencourt. As the island’s first capital until 1834, it is now a peaceful, tourist-oriented destination”.

11.15am: After Breakfast, it was a spot of ‘role reversal’ as Sue took the wheel, and I was Navigator (I think I got the easier role!) 😉. We were soon on our way, where the weather was on our side (no rain/warmer than yesterday/little wind) but in terms of the travelling, it took a little time to get used to the constantly changing speed limits and the lack of road signage. It ended up being a pretty uneventful (but enjoyable) journey, although we did temporarily miss a turn, and quickly corrected our error thanks to a little help from ‘Mr Google’.

About ten minutes before we arrived, we stumbled across a couple of statues that Jo & Janet had mentioned when describing their recent visit here. They’re located at a scenic viewpoint called Moro Velosa.

Parking was limited, but we squeezed in and took a closer look. The statues are of two former Kings – Guize and Ayose, the last Mahos tribal chiefs and the statues were designed by artist and architect César Manrique. The only way to really appreciate the workmanship was to get up close, and Ann ‘took one for the team’. Given Ann’s positioning in the photo, personally, I would have worn a waterproof hat!!! 🙄☔😂. Opposite the statues (mind the road!) was a spectacular view across the valley.

12.40pm: We were soon arriving at our destination. It felt (and was) definitely warmer than yesterday with a healthy 22℃, and the hottest day since we arrived. Luckily for us, the weather forecast had been consistently ‘wonky’ since we arrived – in pretty much every case, ignoring the wind, it’s been a tad warmer than suggested. Huzzah! 👍👍

Again, limited parking saw us grab the last space in the official parking area for the village. In fact, I think we created the space, as the car-park was technically already full! 👍. Living on the edge, us four, ehh?!?! 😮. We took the short partly-stepped route into the village itself.

The pedestrian entrance route was fairly narrow, beginning with a sand-covered path and then a series of steps (requiring an informal one-way system to prevent those leaving from colliding with those arriving). Having carefully and courteously paused to let ‘oncoming traffic’ through, in barged a group of Germans who were stopping for no-one! 🙄. Teutonic travellers now ahead, we were soon up the stairs and into the village. Weather-wise, it was turning into a gorgeous day! 😎

With the steps conquered, we were greeted by Don Quixote, Rucio, and of course, Sancho Panza (perhaps the impatient Germans thought there was a Tank ahead? (I digress. Again 🙄).

Whoever thought it was a good idea to promote the Village based on its history of being the ancient Capital, was onto a good thing! 👍. Whether it was the variety of flowers and foliage or just the general feel of the place, we all enjoyed every square inch. It wasn’t particularly large in square footage – easily covered in a hour, but a) it was busy and b) it felt cared for. With everything restored within an inch of its life (without overdoing things), it was an authentic slice of history and the perfect Tourists’ trap Paradise 👍😎😍

For us though, the standout attraction had to be the Church. Helpfully named: The Church of Santa María De Betancuria, the interior was a feast for the eyes. Dating back as far as 1404, imagine worshipping here all those years ago! 👍😎🙏🙏

Founded in 1410 by Jean de Béthencourt it features a blend of Norman-Gothic, Baroque, and Mudéjar styles, including a notable wooden ceiling, wooden/stone floor and a 17th-century altarpiece. Nice… very nice! 👍

It was worth the drive just to see this! 100% recommended, even if you’re not particularly religious. Note that it’s not free to get in (just like the toilets here). Great value at just 2€ per person (in contrast, the loos cost 1€!)

1.30pm: By now, we were all cultured out, and a short pitstop at the nearby Café – Casa Santa Maria – was calling our name. Less ‘Man of la Mancha’ and more ‘Men with the Munchies’.

2.10pm: Yummy! That all went down a treat. We’d now seen everything we wanted to see and headed back to the car for our return to Corralejo. Sue was again in charge of ‘the tank’, and we returned to base in record time.

3.05pm: Back at the Hotel, some of us siestered whilst others made the most of the improving weather.

6.10pm: If last night was Curry Night, then tonight HAD to be Pizza! Checking the Carnival Programme showed that there was also some entertainment on near ‘Music Square’ in the popup marquee – more of that later.

We took a short wander before the performances began and enjoyed a quick drink. Unusually, the welcome was a little frosty (maybe because we ‘only’ wanted drinks) at our chosen watering hole, but Ann and Sue were rewarded with what looked like triple measures of Gin in their G&Ts. Both glasses certainly looked like a generous glassful even before the tonic was added 😮😮. It’s a tough life out here! 😋

7.35pm: We returned to the marquee, where the performances were now in full swing. It’s difficult to fully appreciate the energy in the photograph, but we were about as close as we could get – it was all very well supported, and those on stage ranged from ‘tiny-tots’ to adults – and it seemed, every age in between! They were giving the music their all. Choreographed within an inch of its life, what we saw was a powerful performance of song and dance – and a real joy to watch. Enthusiasm was off the scale as demonstrated by the performers AND those watching.

7.55pm: Pizza time! Plenty of choice for Pizzerias in the immediate area where we chose ‘Peperoni‘ (yes, with a single ‘p’!). It was obviously a popular place with pretty much ALL of the tables pre-booked. Luckily for us, they squeezed us in.

Inside, it was the simplest of decor, giving it a more intimate feel. Service was swift (pretty much the norm out here) and we learned that they’re the 9th most popular pizzeria in Spain (according to TripAdvisor!). That might certainly explain all the ‘reserved’ signs then! 👍. Talking of signage, the choice of pizzas was simply enormous, so large, in fact, they displayed the more popular choices ON THE WALL – and it was a long wall! 😉. Come here for their excellent pizzas (but not their WiFi, that they proudly announced they didn’t have, unless bribed 😉).

We all enjoyed our respective choices. I opted for the ‘Pozo Negro’ featuring Tomatoes, Mozzarella, Porcini Mushrooms, and Gorgonzola. They all had a real homemade feel to them. A bottle of very smooth Red sealed the deal!

9.25pm: The night wasn’t quite over as we were about to find out. Was that the sound of distant drums, or was my Tinnitus playing up? Thankfully, it WAS drums – and it was getting louder! Great news then, as what we’d missed in the performances at the marquee earlier (in part) was now making its way towards us. We hadn’t expected this, but judging by the number of people now lining the streets with their camera-phones at the ready, it was all part of the Corralejo Carnival experience! Wow! What an atmosphere!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉,

The costumes, the colours and the sheer enthusiasm certainly brought a party atmosphere to the streets of Corralejo! And they weren’t done yet as they danced their way past the restaurants and into ‘Music Square’. We followed the growing crowd of err, followers, where the dancers and drummers just kept going. Today, Corralejo, tomorrow, the world (well, there was no stopping them tonight) where it certainly looked like they had a few more miles left to cover. Whatever they were on, can I have some, please?? 😋😉

10.05pm: We left Paul & Sue to enjoy the atmosphere in ‘Music Square’ that, even by its usual ‘buzzy’ atmosphere, was now experiencing even more of it than usual. Tempted to join the dancers (really? 🙄) we side-stepped the main procession and took the now-familiar walk back to the hotel. It was now just after 10pm, and the wonky weather forecast had truly exceeded expectations – the breeze had dropped, and even at this late hour, it was warm enough for me just to need a light coat.

10.35pm: That’s us done for Day 4. That’s two nights on the trot where we’ve still been up after 10.30. Are we turning into party animals?

Probabaly not! 😎😉. Sleep well, I know we will! 💤💤💤💤. We have no plans whatsoever for tomorrow except that it’ll be a car-free day! Catch you Friday!