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6.05am: Morning all! 😉 Welcome to the weekend!

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Day 25 – Where are we?
(Saturday, 23rd November)

We arrived in Dunedin (South Island’s second-largest city and part of the Otago region) yesterday afternoon, and took a brief look around (see yesterday’s photos HERE). We’re here for just today, and in full ‘tourist mode’ 😉. Dunedin… lock up your ice-creams! 😎😬

xx.xxam: So, today, we set off to explore more of the area, including:

👍 Larnach Castle (which is ‘not really’ a Castle)
👍 Fort Taiaroa (and its famous ‘Disappearing’ Gun) – hope it’s there today, we’ve come a long way!
👍 Speight’s Brewery (later this evening)

TODAY’S TRIVIA: Dunedin has the steepest road in the world

Larnach Castle

9.25am: The journey there was reminiscent of our journey to Akaroa, especially as we got closer to our destination. At various points, we were so close to the water, I think we almost got the tyres wet! Again, this sort of motoring is not for the faint-hearted (or non-swimmers). It’s worth persevering, though, because you are on your way to see New Zealand’s only Castle (sort of!)

9.25am: This is a Castle that’s not really a Castle! Built in 1871 by William Larnach and currently under restoration by the Barker family – Barry & Margaret – they fell in love with the place in 1967 (when the building was a near-ruin) the Castle and surrounding grounds are high on the list for any visitor to Dunedin. 45NZD (£21) each for entry.

The original owner, William Larnach, was a Baron and Politician and built it all for his first wife Eliza (who sadly, died from a stroke, aged just 38). It took more than 200 workmen, three years, to create the Castle shell and master European craftsmen spent a further 12 years embellishing the interior. Larnach spared no expense on his venture – and it showed! 👍

It’s worth remembering that this is the ONLY Castle in New Zealand and the current owners have taken a great risk in financing their venture, hoping to return the building to its former glory. It’s certainly ‘work in progress’ as there were a few rooms currently being renovated during our visit. More positively, they have a commercial eye too, renting out the space for formal gatherings such as weddings as well as adding accommodation and dining options to suit most pockets.

Top of the World?

For the adventurous, a short sprint up the narrow spiral staircase on the top floor was worth it for spectacular views out across the land and across the water…

The Gardens & Outside

We were impressed with the Gardens, even on this very grey morning. As gorgeous as the House and Gardens were, it was countered by the tragic story of the Larnach family. Married four times, William Larnach eventually took his own life, aged 65, due to threat of bankruptcy and subsequent loss of seat in Parliament. A longer version of his sad demise is here. 😕

A quick visit to their Café completed our visit today. Great coffee, a nice line in sweet treats, plus TWO open fires! 🔥🔥. Perfect!! 👍

11.05am: The journey to our next stop was much the same – the water on our left and the road as twisty as they come! 😬

Fort Taiaroa (aka ‘Gull HQ’)

11.30am: Here we are at the historic underground Fort Taiaroa. My thanks again to ‘me ol’ mucker’, Ian for recommending we visit here. The Fort is built beneath the significant albatross colony where I sensed my first touch of ‘woke’ here in New Zealand as soon as we arrived! Why? 😕

There was no signage for the Fort, but plenty about the building named the Royal Albatross Centre. We really did wonder if we’d arrived at the right location. It was only that we’d literally run out of road, that we knew we MUST be here ‘at the Fort’. Today, it seemed that there is more ‘stuff’ here about ‘albatrosses’ and their welfare, and in particular, the Royal Albatross species, rather than prioritise the important fortification that protected the South Island from potential invasion! To me, it all felt like a weird juxta-positioning of priorities! OK, rant over!!!! 😬. 30NZD each (£14) for the Fort Tour, more if you wanted ‘added albatross information and the related Tour’ (60NZD each).

Specifically, the Fort was constructed to counter the potential threat of a Russian invasion in the late 1880s over Afghanistan, and later used for training and defence during WWI and WWII (the Japanese) – but on first glance at the building, you’d never know! 😕 [Ed: That’s enough ranting!]

In fact, if you’re lucky enough to adore an albatross, this is the place to be, offering the last word in species, subspecies and everything in between. I wouldn’t have minded, but the irony was there were NO albatrosses to be seen ANYWHERE today (maybe they’re with the whales from earlier in our holiday???) 🤭

In their place? Gulls, gulls and more gulls. Noisy sods too! 🙄…. Today’s top tip: wear a hat, otherwise you will look like an advert for Head & Shoulders. All I can say is that I’m pleased that our rental car is white! 😯

11.40am: Once inside, a very helpful Christine on ‘Gull Reception’ confirmed that we were in the right place, and Marie would be along shortly to take us ‘up the hill’ to meet Emma who would take us to the ‘Disappearing Gun’.

Midday: Having marched us to the top of the hill, we met Emma, who took us inside Fort Taiaroa and deep underneath the bird colony. Exciting stuff! 👍

We were now beneath the rock – in bird-proof territory, thankfully, where Emma led us around the fortification.

The standout exhibit, the worlds’ only Armstrong ‘Disappearing’ Gun of its type, is still in working trim in its original gun pit. Why ‘Disappearing’? No, not the latest secret ‘invisible’ weapon from Q Branch, but the whole gun was on a hydraulic arm that allowed it to be raised, fired, and then retracted from view. Clever stuff! Just think how many gulls could be picked off with this monster machine! 😯

For Gun (and gull) fans, here are some facts… Built in 1886 and shipped from England, this is a six-inch Armstrong hydro-pneumatic device. It was last fired in 1943 and these days, to prevent scaring the albatrosses (yes, really) the gun is incapable of being fired. More information about this monster machine HERE.

This was all fascinating, and we learned so much about this secret location and especially gun technology of the time.

We ended our tour with a visit to the small Museum that had been created adjacent to the Gun

After the Tour, as we wandered back down the hill, we realised what a great view was to be had from this location… 😯😯

12.55pm: We said goodbye to Emma and the 2,347,177 gulls and headed back to the car.

It may only have been 30-or-so kilometres back to our Motel, but it took around 45 minutes due to the now familiar twisty parts (as the road hugged the coast).

2.02pm: Back in the room, just time for a cuppa and feet up before we take the walk to Speight’s Brewery for our Tour at 6pm.

5.25pm: Off for a p****-up. Guess where?🙄

Speight’s Brewery

Established in 1876, Speight’s Brewery was founded by James Speight, Charles Greenslade and William Dawson when they handed in their notice at Well Park Brewery. Dawson was the Brewer, Greenslade, the Maltster and Speight, the Businessman. The rest, as they say, is history, as Speight’s is New Zealand’s oldest brewery.

5.45pm: Here we are, ready for our evening tour.

We were surprised at how popular the Tour was – there was 16 in the group – 6pm on a Saturday night! Anneka introduced herself as our Tour Guide and took us in the lift to the top floor (where the brewing process begins).

Forty-five minutes later, it was all over. And what better way to end a Tour of a Brewery than to test the products!

We were given a glass of their ‘Gold Medal Ale‘ plus two empty glasses! Hmmm, what to do?? We tried their Cloudy Cider and Old Dark too. Mrs P joined in!!! 😯😯

We then took the walk back to the Motel…

I won’t comment separately about the roads today. Simply put: Mostly empty, smoother than smooth, but very twisty. Take care out there! 👍

Tonight is our final sleepover in Dunedin. Tomorrow, it’s a 290km (180-mile) drive to our next bed – the Shakespeare House B&B in Te Anau, Southland, just east of the National Park. We’re there for two nights.

Sleep well. See you on Sunday!