Cruising around the UK – Day 9

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Sunday 20 September 2026

Morning Shipmates! As you surely know by now, we’re aboard the Cruise Ship – Bolette – the flagship of Fred Olsen Cruise Lines. It’s the penultimate day of our 10-day sail around the UK – and we’re not where the brochure says we should be! 😮

According to the itinerary, we should be looking at Lochs sailing down the waters between Scotland and Ireland. Oh no: the sailing/weather conditions yesterday dictated otherwise and we’re actually now in the south of Ireland – docking in Cobh (pronounced ‘Cove’).

Ann had made a plan! After a quick breakfast, we took the train to Cork for a look around and then headed back to Cobh to do the same. That was easy as the station was literally a few paces from where we docked! 👍

The train fare was only €6.90 return in total for both of us. It was 9am and the next train due at 9.30 – Perfect!

Twenty-five minutes later, we arrived in Cork.

Cork

Cork is the second-largest city in the Republic of Ireland, the county town of County Cork, the largest city in the province of Munster and the third-largest on the island of Ireland. At the 2022 census, it had a population of 224,004.

Today was a first visit for both of us and we were looking forward to experiencing more of ‘all things Irish’.

As we wandered through the Town, although we done some research, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. Clearly some money had been spent here tidying up the paths and roads,although there didn’t seem to be many what we’d calll ‘old (old)’ buildings. It was just after 9.45am and there certainly weren’t that many people about either, but I guess we were quite early and it was a Sunday (over here, many shops don’t trade on the Sabbath).

We followed signs to City Centre until they stopped showing them (thanks!). Cue Google Maps and Mrs P’s legendary sense of direction! 👍. We could feel our step count ‘on a roll’ already! 😵‍💫.

It was now a few degrees warmer than the forecast suggested and our ‘triple layer’ of clothing was turning out to be overkill.

The go-to destination was the English Market, first opened in 1788, but sadly, not open on Sundays! ☹️☹️

Yes, there was plenty to see, but apart from St Fin Barres Cathedral (completed 1879) in the far distance, nothing really stood out.

In fact, the more we wandered, the more Cork became just another town – and worse still, no hint of Irishness anywhere! 😮

Those expecting to see liberal shades of orange and green, the familiar Guinness logos and other staples of Irish culture would, like us, have been disappointed. It all felt strangely, err, without identity.

The more we walked, the more Turkish Barbers and Vape Shops we saw – there was even a 24/7 Casino! Where were the Irish Bars?

Sadly, by the time we got back to the Railway Station, and in a moment of reflection, we realised that in 2026, Cork is not the Irish City we imagined AT ALL. Today, we felt no sense of ANY Irishness apart from the road signs and their gaelic dual signing! Even listening to the everyday voices on the street as we soaked up the ‘Cork vibe’ confirmed a ‘world of tongues’.

In retrospect, I guess Cork is like so many other cities these days where their individuality has given way to a mix of cultures. For reasons unknown, we thought Cork might be immune! BeJesus! 😳

Phew! We arrived back at Cork Station with just time for a quick coffee – where at least the post boxes are patriotically green! 🇮🇪

Trains were on the hour coming back and we caught the midday one back to where we docked in Cobh. The train was packed! Think St Pancras heading north during the evening rush-hour! 😬.

Cobh

Cobh is a town in Ireland, on an island in Cork City’s harbour. It’s known for being the Titanic’s last port of call in 1912. From 1849 until 1920 it was known as Queenstown and in the 2022 Census, it recorded a population of 14,148.

After our Cork experience, we were hoping for a more traditional Irish feel to this harbour town.

For younger readers here who may not be aware of the significance of Cobh, here’s a quick history lesson. Originally called Queenstown (after Queen Victoria) with its famous pier (that used to be called ‘Victoria Pier’) the Town has had a significant transformation over the years. Historically, what made it famous was that it was the last Port that the ill-fated Titanic ever sailed from. In a slightly dark and morbid marketing approach, the whole Town’s marketing has been oriented towards that fateful fact! (more about that later).

In a more tenuous link, gone are the links to the British (Victoria Pier is now Kennedy Pier and the Bandstand is called the Kennedy Bandstand) all based on the fact that JFK and his father, Joseph, once passed through this Port.

In spite of airbrushing out England’s connection, first impressions were positive with the brightly coloured buildings and the general ‘hum’ of the Town. This all looked, sounded and felt like we were in Ireland, although the selection of flags flying in the Harbour were a curious mix! 😮. The above Hotel, ‘The Commodore’ has a claim to fame. It was where survivors of the torpedoed ship, ‘Lusitania‘ were accommodated in 1915 after being looked after in the Cunard Building further down the street (see later).

We sat awhile, people-watching, whilst contemplating why certain national flags were displayed, and others were not. We then wandered further on along the main drag. It was certainly attractive and full of a variety of independent shops doing their best to entice visitors to part with their Euros – and they weren’t having to try too hard, people seemed to be loving the experience!

As I mentioned earlier, a big draw to the Town was the ‘Titanic Experience‘ judging by the sheer number of people queuing to get in. We didn’t attempt to join them, but I’m assuming they didn’t mean ‘experience’ at all in its literal sense? Thankfully (???) it was simply a Museum about the Titanic.

We didn’t attempt the steep climb to the St Colman’s Cathedral, but its imposing Gothic design watching over travellers certainly had the photographers snapping!

By now, we were flagging. That three-miler (plus at least another 1-2 here) had us looking for a Bar. Preferably one with seating outside! Step forward Rob Roy’s!

Yes, this was more like where we had in mind! Irish music coming from the Bar, filtering out into the street, a pint of Guinness within reach and the sound of Irish voices (albeit amongst some Portuguese tones!). Absolutely no doubt which country we were in now!

Our final look around Cobh uncovered some old offices of the Cunard Line…

…as well as the famous statue of Annie Moore (holding her brother’s hand) symbolising the 2.5 million who emigrated through Cobh to make a new life in America. She was the first immigrant to be processed at the Ellis Island Immigration Station in New York City on 1st January 1892.

Then it was back to the Bolette for a short, 1 hour siesta (preceded, in my case by Sherry Trifle!) 😋

6pm – Yes, it’s that time again – more food!!! 😋😋

Evening Meal – Sunday

The menu finally beat me. I had to wimp out on the pudding choices and go for ice-cream and I also skipped the suggested Starter Course.

Tomorrow

Tomorrow is a sea-day as we head back to Liverpool and disembarkation.. That means packing (not my speciality) and summarising the Cruise for those who might follow in our footsteps (yes, that sounds like mine).

See you Monday! 🥱🥱